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Calibre analysis / Manual winding

De Bethune DB2005: six days inside the slim DB28xs Starry Seas

DB28xs Starry Seas combines a 7.4 mm case with the hand-wound DB2005: twin barrels provide six days at 4 Hz. Floating titanium lugs complement its compact 38.7 mm diameter.

Published 29 October 20264 min read
DB28xs Starry Seas
Photo: © De Bethune · Image source

The essentials first

In one minute

CaseGrade 5 titanium; 38.7 × 7.4 mm; floating lugs
MovementDB2005; manual winding; 160 components, 27 jewels
Frequency4 Hz / 28,800 vph

Why it is interesting

DB2005 is appealing for combining six days of reserve with a 4 Hz frequency. The compact case and floating lugs make its engineering interesting even for those who do not seek large watches.

Things to consider

There is no seconds hand or date, and winding is manual. Despite the maritime name, 3 ATM water resistance and a leather strap limit aquatic use.

De Bethune · DB28xs Starry Seas

The movement in detail

A six-day power reserve usually suggests a large case. DB28xs Starry Seas measures 38.7 mm across and 7.4 mm thick. Beneath its wavy blue dial sits the manually wound DB2005 with twin barrels. This is a technical examination of the existing DB28XSTIS3; the manufacturer’s current product page does not give the precise original announcement date.

Wave-like guilloché on blued titanium and white-gold stars.Enlarge

Wave-like guilloché on blued titanium and white-gold stars.

© De Bethune · Source

Two barrels deliver the stated six days, or 144 hours after full winding. Frequency has not been reduced to a leisurely 3 Hz: the balance runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz. The 30 mm movement contains 160 components and 27 jewels. The benefit for the owner is straightforward: when rotating several watches, the De Bethune can be set aside for a few days. There is no automatic rotor, so its energy reserve must be restored with the crown.

The regulating assembly is more interesting than a simple frequency figure. Its titanium balance has white-gold inserts; the manufacturer relates the design to temperature changes and air resistance. It works alongside the proprietary spring with a flat terminal curve and a silicon escape wheel. The triple pare-chute system protects the assembly against shocks. However, a list of patents does not replace accuracy testing of an individual watch: the official sheet gives no daily tolerance.

DB2005 through the sapphire back: the balance and bridges of the manual calibre.Enlarge

DB2005 through the sapphire back: the balance and bridges of the manual calibre.

© De Bethune · Source

The case and floating lugs are Grade 5 titanium. The lugs change angle relative to the case, allowing the strap to follow the wrist; actual fit should still be assessed by trying it on. The blued titanium dial has irregular guilloché and white-gold stars, while the hands show only hours and minutes. The technical sheet specifies 3 ATM and an alligator strap. No price is published on the public product page, so current pricing and terms for the buyer’s market must be requested from the brand.

Sources

De Bethune — DB28xs Starry Seas DB28XSTIS3www.debethune.chDe Bethune — official DB28xs Starry Seas technical sheetwww.debethune.ch