Journal archive

All reviews

New models, interesting movements, details and character.

01

CREATIVE TIME · Automatic winding · Calibre analyses

How do you choose the right mechanical watch size for your wrist?

Diameter is only the beginning. Case length, thickness, lug shape and bracelet determine the fit. A practical order for trying on watches, without universal wrist-circumference-to-diameter tables.

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02

OMEGA · Automatic winding · Model reviews

OMEGA changes sides: new Seamasters for Bond and SPECTRE

A blue Seamaster for 007 and a black one for his opponents. OMEGA has unveiled six models: two unlimited steel versions and two sets of 77 pairs. The key detail is hidden at the back, on the rotors of the familiar 8806 calibre.

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03

Carl F. Bucherer · Automatic winding · Watches on Screen

John Wick’s watch: Carl F. Bucherer Manero AutoDate in the third film

John Wick: Chapter 3 – Parabellum · 2019 · Screen model

A white dial, black strap and restrained 38 mm case: Keanu Reeves’s character wears the Manero AutoDate in John Wick 3. We examine the manufacturer’s confirmation and the appeal of this understated mechanical watch.

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04

Breguet · Manual winding · Calibre analyses

Breguet 7727: why a mechanical watch uses a magnetic balance pivot

Magnets are usually seen as a threat to mechanical watches, yet in the Breguet 7727 they help support the balance staff. We examine the manually wound 10 Hz 574 DR, its 60-hour reserve and the limits of striking accuracy figures.

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05

Longines · Manual winding · Model reviews

Longines Spirit Pilot Flyback: a blue dial and manual chronograph

The new blue 39.5 mm Spirit Pilot Flyback retains a manual chronograph that resets and restarts with one press. We examine what the L792.4 offers and where its compromises begin.

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06

Patek Philippe · Automatic winding · Model reviews

Watch Art Milano 2026: a city-map repeater and other Patek Philippe premieres

Patek Philippe's Milan exhibition opened on 2 October. We look at seven limited editions through three very different characters: the World Time repeater 5531G-013, the red 7047G-010 and the steel Aquanaut 5167A-014. A separate review of the new 5978P is already in the journal.

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07

CREATIVE TIME · Automatic winding · Calibre analyses

Column-wheel chronographs: what is the buyer paying for?

A column wheel controls the chronograph's commands, but does not define everything it does. We explain the difference between control and coupling, and why one term is not enough to choose a watch.

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08

Hamilton · Manual winding · Model reviews

Hamilton Cushion Mechanical: hand winding in a 30 mm case

Hamilton has brought back the cushion shape of 1926. The H36109720 has a slim 30 × 30 mm case, a hand-wound H-42 with a 57-hour reserve and a £935 price at the UK store. Its calibre is based on the ETA 7001, an important part of this release's story.

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09

Heuer · Automatic winding · Watches on Screen

Heuer Monaco 1133B: the square chronograph of Le Mans

Le Mans · 1971 · Screen model

Steve McQueen wears a Heuer Monaco 1133B in the 1971 film Le Mans. The blue square and left-hand crown became part of the driver's image. We examine the original chronograph's construction and why later reissues should not be presented as screen-used watches.

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10

Oris · Automatic winding · Calibre analyses

Oris Calibre 400: why an automatic needs two barrels and five days of power

Oris Calibre 400 is designed for 120 hours of running, with two mainspring barrels and a slide-bearing rotor. We examine what owners gain from this layout and how to interpret the promised ten-year service interval.

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11

Raketa · Automatic winding · Model reviews

Raketa Copernicus 0307: time on two orbits

Circular hands over an aventurine dial make Copernicus instantly recognisable. More interesting still is what sits behind them: the Russian automatic calibre 2615, including an in-house balance hairspring.

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12

Slava · Automatic winding · Model reviews

Slava Television 2427: two barrels behind a green screen

The green Television is easily recognised by its broad steel case and double calendar. Behind the 1970s look sits the Russian calibre 2427 with two mainspring barrels. We examine what the 125 000-rouble price buys.

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13

Vostok · Automatic winding · Model reviews

Vostok Amphibia 420059: an affordable introduction to Russian mechanics

A blue diver dial, steel case and factory calibre 2416Б. The Amphibia 420059 offers an introduction to Chistopol mechanics for 7 436 roubles, with 200 m water resistance and clear compromises in power reserve and accuracy.

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14

CREATIVE TIME · Automatic winding · Calibre analyses

An 80-hour power reserve: what are the compromises?

A long reserve is convenient when changing watches, but the same 80 hours can be achieved through different engineering approaches. We compare Tissot Powermatic 80 and Grand Seiko 9SA5.

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15

James Bond / 007 · Automatic winding · Watches on Screen

All of James Bond's watches: 25 films, references, photographs and scenes

From Connery's Rolex and the red Pulsar display to digital Seikos and Craig's titanium OMEGA. A comprehensive guide to Bond's watches in the 25 main-series films: names, references, real photographs, movements, disputed identifications and two official clips featuring watch gadgets.

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16

VOXEL · Automatic winding · Model reviews

VOXEL Meridion VX01-E: the dial changes the rules at 13:00

A mechanical watch whose entire hour scale changes twice a day. Meridion has a new in-house display module on a Soprod Newton P092 base, a 41.4 mm case and a 44-hour reserve. Preorders opened on 1 October 2026.

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17

OMEGA · Automatic winding · Watches on Screen

OMEGA Seamaster 300 from Spectre: a bezel that counts hours

Spectre · 2015 · Screen model

The Seamaster 300 from Spectre is recognised by its striped NATO and rounded seconds-hand tip. Reference 233.32.41.21.01.001 has calibre 8400, a 60-hour power reserve and an hour bezel that noticeably changes the usual diver look.

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18

F.P.Journe · Manual winding · Calibre analyses

F.P.Journe 1510: a small spring with a big job

In the Chronomètre Optimum, energy passes through two barrels, a one-second remontoire and the EBHP escapement. We examine why another energy store sits between the mainspring and balance, and why 70 hours of running do not tell the whole story.

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19

CREATIVE TIME · Manual winding · Calibre analyses

Manual or automatic winding: which is easier every day?

Some watches ask you to turn a crown; others wind through wrist movement. Both are mechanical. Using Grand Seiko's 9S64 and 9S65, we explore which is more convenient for a single watch and for a collection.

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20

Patek Philippe · Manual winding · Model reviews

Patek Philippe 5978P: the calendar changes in an instant

The new 5978P's perpetual-calendar displays change instantly and in sync. Patek Philippe combines this task with a hand-wound chronograph in calibre CH 29-535 PS QI, a reason to look deeper than the dial.

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21

Hamilton · Automatic winding · Watches on Screen

Hamilton BeLOWZERO: mechanical watches and the world of Tenet

Tenet · 2020 · Inspired by a film

Black titanium, a large case and 80 hours of power. BeLOWZERO captures the mood of Tenet, although Hamilton's screen watches work differently from the production H78505330.

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22

Grand Seiko · Manual winding · Calibre analyses

Grand Seiko 9SA4: why a wagtail lives inside the calibre

A hand-wound 5 Hz calibre with around 80 hours of reserve. Grand Seiko rethought the winding assembly and shaped one component like a bird, whose movement is visible as the crown turns.

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23

Seiko · Automatic winding · Watches on Screen

Seiko Captain Willard: the screen original and its return

Apocalypse Now · 1979 · Screen model

The asymmetric Seiko from Captain Willard's wrist returned as the SLA033J1. The reissue has an automatic 8L35, sapphire crystal and 200 m water resistance. We examine what remains of the screen 6105 and what changed.

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24

Czapek Genève · Automatic winding · Calibre analyses

Czapek SXH5: seven bridges and a platinum micro-rotor

A rotor usually covers much of an automatic movement. In the SXH5, it is small and offset towards the edge, leaving seven openworked bridges and the wheel train visible. We examine the Antarctique family's calibre.

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25

Formex · Automatic winding · Model reviews

Formex AirField: titanium and 65 hours in a pilot format

AirField brings Formex into pilot-watch styling: a grey dial, hardened titanium and a Sellita SW200-2 Power+ with 65 hours of reserve. The manufacturer promises first deliveries in late October 2026.

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26

Hamilton · Automatic winding · Watches on Screen

Hamilton Murph 42: the watch that connected time in Interstellar

Interstellar · 2014 · Screen model

A black dial, cathedral hands and a tiny “Eureka” on the seconds hand. Murph 42 brings the Interstellar watch's look into a production model with automatic H-10 and an 80-hour reserve.

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27

OMEGA · Automatic winding · Watches on Screen

OMEGA Seamaster 007: the titanium diver from No Time To Die

No Time To Die · 2021 · Screen model

Matte titanium, a brown dial and a mesh bracelet make Craig's Seamaster difficult to confuse with other Diver 300Ms. Version 210.90.42.20.01.001 also has its own technical foundation: calibre 8806 with Master Chronometer certification.

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28

Hamilton · Automatic winding · Watches on Screen

Hamilton The Odyssey: a bronze Khaki Field in Christopher Nolan's world

The Odyssey · 2026 · Inspired by a film

A 42 mm bronze Hamilton created with Christopher Nolan and inspired by The Odyssey. Automatic H-10, titanium back and a run of 2 112 pieces.

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29

Hamilton · Automatic winding · Watches on Screen

Hamilton Blue Murph 38 mm: a familiar watch in a new colour

Interstellar · 2014 · Inspired by a film

Blue Murph keeps the recognisable hands and compact case, but changes the mood with a grainy dial and dark edge. Two versions with automatic H-10 and 80 hours of reserve.

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30

Citizen · Automatic winding · Model reviews

Citizen Series 8 NB6092-01E: Damascus steel, carbon and Traveler GMT

A gold-coloured case with a Damascus pattern, carbon dial and travel GMT. In the NB6092-01E, the local hour is set independently, a useful detail beneath bold styling.

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31

Tissot · Automatic winding · Model reviews

Tissot Gentleman Gold: a blue dial and gold bezel

In this Gentleman, gold is concentrated on the bezel and the blue dial has a fine crosshair. Beneath the classic look is Powermatic 80 Silicium with a silicon hairspring and up to 80 hours of power reserve.

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32

NOMOS Glashütte · Automatic winding · Model reviews

NOMOS Worldtimer Dark: cities glow in the dark

A black dial and expanded luminous display give the familiar Worldtimer more character at night. Inside is the in-house DUW 3202 with integrated time-zone mechanism.

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33

YEMA · Automatic winding · Model reviews

YEMA Navygraf Meteorite: meteorite, titanium and 70 hours

This compact Navygraf has a meteorite dial, titanium case and automatic CMM.10 with 70 hours of reserve. Muonionalusta's natural pattern makes each dial slightly different; shipping is stated for late October.

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34

Konstantin Chaykin · Automatic winding · Model reviews

Atomic Heart Twins: time as a character

Two discs show hours and minutes, while the moon phase becomes the face of a robot ballerina. Chaykin's in-house module works on a La Joux-Perret base.

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35

Ulysse Nardin · Automatic winding · Model reviews

Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE Blue Enamel: a carousel over blue enamel

Freak has an open carousel instead of conventional hands. In Blue Enamel, it moves over a blue enamel hour disc: 44 mm of titanium, calibre UN-240 and 90 hours of power reserve.

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36

Vacheron Constantin · Automatic winding · Model reviews

Overseas Azure: complexity in 8.1 millimetres

For Overseas's 30th anniversary: a white-gold perpetual calendar, azure dial and 200-piece run.

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37

Zenith · Automatic winding · Model reviews

Zenith Solo Sport: El Primero's rhythm in three hands

A three-hand Chronomaster is an unusual direction for the El Primero family. Solo Sport keeps 5 Hz, gains 60 hours of power and a 40 mm case, leaving the chronograph off stage.

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38

A. Lange & Söhne · Manual winding · Model reviews

Triple Split: 567 components in a platinum case

The triple split-seconds chronograph returns in platinum. Behind the restrained dial sits one of Lange's most absorbing movements.

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