Cyrus · Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Rose Gold
The movement in detail
The movement’s idea
The unusual feature of the Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon begins with the position of its regulating assembly rather than its decoration. The hand-wound CYR625 calibre turns the tourbillon through 90° from the conventional arrangement and places it at the centre of the dial. Time indications have to fit around this structure, giving the hours and minutes separate arcs. This analysis uses reference 539.505.GG.A in 18-carat 4N rose gold, a series of 38 pieces.
In a conventional layout, the plane of the balance is usually parallel to the dial. Here the assembly sits across it: when the watch rests dial-up, the balance operates in a vertical plane. The reason for this change relates to the tourbillon’s underlying purpose: rotating the regulator to average out certain positional errors caused by gravity. Cyrus explains its choice through studies of the positions a watch normally occupies on the wrist. This is the manufacturer’s engineering rationale, however, rather than a published comparative accuracy test. Moving the arm still changes the orientation of the whole movement; the construction does not keep the balance vertical at every angle.
The steel cage completes one revolution per minute, comprises 52 parts and, according to the specification, weighs 0.706 g. An arched bridge passes above it, supporting the three-dimensional composition and dividing the dial vertically. Its role is apparent without a loupe: instead of the familiar small opening near the edge of a dial, the rotating assembly becomes the central object. For a buyer, this changes the character of the watch. Looking from the side is as revealing as looking from the front, while a straight-on dial photograph alone cannot explain why the crystal needs so much height.
EnlargeAn angled view reveals the arched bridge and the tourbillon set across the plane of the dial.
© Cyrus Watches Genève · SourcePractical meaning
The retrograde hour scale sits on the left and the minute scale on the right. The hour hand jumps to its next value while the minute hand advances gradually; each returns to the beginning upon reaching the end of its arc. Here, “retrograde” describes a hand returning, rather than the watch running backwards. The familiar silhouette of two central hands disappears, and reading the time involves looking at two sectors in turn. Seconds appear directly on the tourbillon cage: small blocks carry markings at five-second intervals, with 60 picked out in red. This connects the movement’s one-minute rotation to an actual reading of elapsed seconds.
Behind the display is a 344-component hand-wound movement running at 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour. Two winding barrels are connected in parallel, and the technical specification lists a 100-hour power reserve. That is slightly more than four days, allowing a fully wound watch to sit through a long weekend without daily winding. A 5 mm sphere at 12 o’clock shows the remaining energy with numerals for one to four days. This indication is more useful than trying to remember the last winding, but a long reserve alone does not demonstrate equal accuracy at the beginning and end of the springs’ running period.
The two side crowns perform different jobs. The right-hand crown winds the movement and, when pulled out, sets the hands; the pusher in the left-hand crown advances the hour indication quickly. This is useful for correcting local time, although the model has no separate second time zone. The manual contains an important restriction: if the minute hand is between 55 and 60 minutes, backward setting must not cross the 55-minute mark. A locking system operates at that boundary. Owners should follow the procedure rather than force the crown against resistance: this unusual display requires more attentive handling than a simple pair of hands.
The three-dimensional construction has a direct cost in size: the diameter is 44 mm excluding the crowns, and thickness is 19.9 mm. The cushion-shaped case and projecting controls should be tried with the clothes intended to accompany the watch; diameter alone cannot establish whether it will work with a cuff. Anti-reflective sapphire protects the front and back, while the gold version comes with a brown alligator strap and a gold folding clasp. Water resistance is rated at 3 ATM, or 30 m. Together with the leather strap, that is a reason to treat it as a watch for dry everyday settings rather than swimming.
EnlargeThe gold version in profile: its overall 19.9 mm thickness includes the tall domed sapphire crystal.
© Cyrus Watches Genève · SourceBuying this watch requires an interest in maintaining its complex construction as well as admiring its striking cage. Cyrus recommends inspection and servicing through an official representative every three years; current costs and lead times are worth establishing before a purchase. The strength of CYR625 is how consistently the tourbillon’s geometry determines the bridge, scales, crystal and way of reading the time. It is particularly interesting for someone who wants to observe a movement at work and is willing to learn its controls. Promising superior accuracy in return for that complexity without measurements would be dishonest.
