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New release review / Automatic winding

Moser Streamliner: a seconds hand that returns every half-minute

The Streamliner Retrograde Seconds 6252-1200 animates its blue fumé dial with a seconds hand that returns every 30 seconds. A look at HMC 252, the Agenhor collaboration, the 40 mm case and why this striking display takes some adjustment.

Published 9 October 20265 min read
Streamliner Retrograde Seconds
Photo: © H. Moser & Cie. · Image source

The essentials first

In one minute

Case40 mm
CalibreHMC 252
Power reserve72 hours

Why it is interesting

The attraction is the visible mechanics of the return. Blue fumé gives it room, while 72 hours of power makes the complication more convenient when alternating watches.

Things to consider

The seconds scale repeats every 30 seconds and takes adjustment. Try the integrated bracelet; the website’s CHF 29,900 excludes VAT.

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H. Moser & Cie. · Streamliner Retrograde Seconds

The model in detail

Meet the watch

The Streamliner has gained a movement you want to watch: the seconds hand travels along an arc at the bottom of the dial and abruptly returns to the start. It does this twice a minute. October’s new 6252-1200 keeps the collection’s flowing steel case and bracelet but changes its character: a quiet blue background now shares space with a small mechanical performance.

A retrograde display returns along its path instead of continuously rotating in a circle. Here the scale covers 30 seconds, so one sweep does not represent a full minute. Watching the mechanism is more engaging than observing conventional small seconds; counting a familiar sixty-second interval requires keeping track of two cycles.

Inside is the automatic HMC 252 with a 72-hour power reserve. Moser’s official page describes it as an evolution of HMC 250 supplied by Agenhor and specifies a tungsten rotor. This wording is more useful than a vague claim of a proprietary movement: the watch has a named calibre and an identified engineering partner. The rotor turns wrist motion into winding the spring.

Details and limitations

Part of the retrograde mechanism, including a newly designed rack, is visible on the dial side. This is not a decorative hand laid over an ordinary seconds circle: the return requires energy to accumulate and release rapidly before counting starts again. In choosing such a watch, I am interested in the connection between the visible action and the mechanism underneath rather than the number of inscriptions on the dial.

The 30-second retrograde scale and exposed mechanism at the bottom of the dial.Enlarge

The 30-second retrograde scale and exposed mechanism at the bottom of the dial.

© © H. Moser & Cie. · Source

The Midnight Blue fumé dial darkens towards its edge, while the logo is applied in transparent lacquer. The opening at six gives the composition a low visual centre of gravity. In the official photographs the arc is clearly separated from the hour markers; before buying, though, it is worth seeing the watch in motion to decide whether reading time beside a constantly returning hand suits you.

The steel case measures 40 mm across, with stated water resistance of 12 ATM. Its integrated steel bracelet continues the case without the usual visual break between lugs and strap. At a fitting I would check the position of the first links and clasp: diameter alone does not explain how such a bracelet sits. Compatibility with any standard strap should not be assumed.

The steel links continue the flowing lines of the Streamliner case.Enlarge

The steel links continue the flowing lines of the Streamliner case.

© © H. Moser & Cie. · Source

The stated three-day reserve is useful when alternating watches. A fully wound movement taken off on Friday morning should theoretically last until Monday morning. That calculation uses the specified 72 hours; the actual remaining energy depends on winding. Retrograde seconds do not turn this watch into a stopwatch: independently timing an interval requires a chronograph, which this model does not have.

The official page lists CHF 29,900 excluding VAT: a price in Swiss francs, rather than a final purchase cost in Uzbekistan. I would consider this Streamliner for its combination of a quiet dial and unusual kinetics. Its main limitation follows from the same idea: the half-minute scale is less familiar, and the integrated bracelet calls for a careful fitting and a clear servicing plan.

Sources

H. Moser & Cie. — Streamliner Retrograde Seconds 6252-1200: specifications and photographsh-moser.comH. Moser & Cie. — Streamliner collection and new versionsh-moser.comHaute Time — dated report on October’s Retrograde Seconds additionswww.hautetime.com · 7 October 2026