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Zenith DEFY USM for TimeForArt: a dial that mirrors its surroundings

On October 6, Zenith and USM announced a one-off DEFY Chronograph for a benefit auction. A mirror-polished dial and four USM colours transform the 2025 design; the familiar El Primero 400 remains inside.

Published 7 October 2026Announced 6 October 20264 min read
DEFY Chronograph USM – TimeForArt Unique Piece
© Zenith. Official image of reference 03.A780.400-T/01.M3642 published by Hypebeast. · Image source

The essentials first

In one minute

Case37 mm
CalibreEl Primero 400
Power reserve55 hours

Why it is interesting

A persuasive design exercise built around the proven El Primero 400. This is a one-off auction piece, not a new mechanical platform.

Things to consider

The mirrored dial may produce glare; we have not tested its legibility. The final price will only be known after the auction.

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Zenith · DEFY Chronograph USM – TimeForArt Unique Piece

The model in detail

Meet the watch

The mirror dial of this DEFY reflects the space around it. Three chronograph registers and accents in USM yellow, orange, green and blue make the collaboration with the modular-furniture maker immediately visible. A miniature Haller ball joint appears at the tip of the blue central chronograph hand. This is a single watch made for TimeForArt, rather than another production run of a retail edition.

The 37 mm steel case and ladder bracelet carry forward the Zenith and USM collaboration launched in September 2025. The defining change this time is the fully mirror-polished dial. It looks striking in photographs; reflections could affect legibility in use, but it would be premature to judge that without handling the watch.

El Primero 400 is not a new movement here. The automatic column-wheel chronograph runs at 5 Hz and has a stated 55-hour power reserve. It places a central chronograph seconds hand above a 30-minute counter at 3 and a 12-hour counter at 6; small seconds sit at 9 and the date at about 4:30. This layout leaves room for the reflective surface between the coloured registers.

Details and limitations

The watch forms one lot with a bespoke USM Haller furniture piece designed for storing a collection. The Phillips auction in New York is scheduled for December 5, 2026 at 3:00 p.m. US Eastern time, with proceeds benefiting Swiss Institute. A normal DEFY USM retail price is therefore a poor comparison; no official retail price is stated for this one-off.

What interests me is the meeting of design and mechanics: one change, the dial, gives a familiar high-beat chronograph a different character. A prospective buyer should keep the auction format in mind and inspect the mirrored dial's readability in person if possible.

Sources

Zenith — DEFY Chronograph USM TimeForArt press releasepressroom.zenith-watches.com · 6 October 2026TimeForArt — Zenith | USM lot detailstimeforart.ch